This assembly essentially replaces the drain and tee from this assembly If you need to remove the clamps for any reason you can use a small screwdriver in this area pushing lightly down and outward to pop the clamp free. If the fitting appears slightly loose you can squeeze the looped portion of the clamp lightly with some pliers to tighten it up. Using the same method and clamp style, attach the oil drain back to the drain line on the block.until it buts up against the raised portion on the bottom piece. Secure it with one of the provided clip clamps by simply pushing the clamp together with a pair of pliers. Take the provided 5/8" drain line and install it onto the larger side of the plastic y-fitting that was provided.The crimped metal clamps can be opened by inserting a small flat-blade screwdriver and gently turning it to bend the clamp open. Don't be afraid if it come off in individual pieces. With that line undone gently pull upward on the hose with the white connector, it should pop off of the crankcase breather / oil drain hose.Undo the hose clamp holding the smaller hose onto the pcv valve. Following that hose down, you should see a another line teeing off to a metal fitting and a smaller hose.Pressing down on the release tab pull outward gently to pop it out. The wiring connector does double-duty also holding the white sensor in place.(note the electrical tape to keep it from leaking which doesn't actually work for longer than about 10 seconds) Near the turbo you should see a 90 degree line coming up from the engine block and going into a white fitting, then the turbo inlet.Getting the top one to an even height with the nut on the strut tower and the lower one spaced similarly to stock should give you the space required. Using a rag covering a screwdriver or pry bar, gently GENTLY move the brake lines up slightly.This should allow you a bit more freedom to move it around. Release the harness clip holding it to the top mount intercooler bracket.Clean the adhesive off of your hands and the harness with either soap and water or a small amount of brake cleaner sprayed on a cloth.You should be able to see an end to start unwinding from. Remove this strip but leave the rest of the tape in place for protection. At the top of the harness near where the corrugated plastic sheething stops there should be an extra piece of electrical tape on the top few inches limiting the reach of the o2 sensor harness.Disconnect the o2 sensor connector from the harness, and squeeze the clip to remove it from the bracket.Remove the bracket from the car and set it aside as it won't be used again. Squeeze the harness clip holding the wiring harness to the bracket.It should slip off easily if the pin is out of the way. While doing so wiggle the connector towards the space the TMIC used to occupy. Using a screwdriver, gently lift downward on the retaining pin holding the main engine wiring harness to the bracket.Harness Relocation (07 GD 08+ GR Chassis) You may need to flip the unit over or remove it from the 90 degree bracket to make it fit with the brake lines. Relocate this unit to the bottom of the forward two holes on the strut tower.Undo the two 12mm bolts holding the resistor to the bracket. You'll want to make sure it's cool before doing anything as it can get incredibly hot. Some models have the DRL resistor mounted in various ways in this area. It will give you more slack if you undo the limiting tape on the horn harness.ĭRL Resistor Relocation (GD Chassis 02-07)
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